Visiting a Roman city

Because my main goal was exploring whether I might

ultimately live in Portugal, I was hoping to find a

medium-size city not too distant from Lisbon or Porto

that was peaceful and affordable. Evora is both.

Somewhat of a tourist destination, it is not overrun

with visitors, hosting several music and fine art festivals

with a pleasant, slow tempo in-between tourist seasons.

Temple of Diana, Evora dates from the 1st or 2nd century A.D.

Less than two hours from Lisbon by bus, inland and at a bit higher altitude, Evora, capital of the Alto Alentejo region, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once a Roman outpost, it is surrounded by medieval stone walls and towering aqueducts.

Sixteenth and 17th century, whitewashed houses stand side-by-side, along narrow cobblestone streets. Admittedly, I frequently became lost despite the city’s compact size because the streets follow a circular pattern determined by the wall, confusing my already challenged directional sense.

At its center, however, the all-important Temple of Diana, dates to the 1st or 2nd century A.D. Still lovely with 14 graceful Corinthian columns around its perimeter and positioned at the edge of a precipice, this magnificent building was undoubtedly a sacred place.

Beside the temple, tourists and locals relaxed and chatted at tables and chairs set underneath shady oaks, enjoying ice cream, beer and sandwiches.

Facing the temple stand two other important buildings, the Igreja de Sao Joao Evangelista (Church of John the Baptist) and adjoining Palace of the Dukes of Cadeval, filled with Dutch and Flemish Renaissance artworks, particularly those by Bruegel.

The Palace was the residence of Dom Joao II, Dom Joao IV and Dom Joao V, as well as prison for Dom Fernando II of Braganza who was beheaded in Evora in 1483. In fact, the Dukes of Cadeval still live in the massive building!

It is important to keep in mind, particularly in smaller cities, lunchtime closes museums and businesses such as pharmacies, for two hours mid-day, so plan accordingly. I had to return twice to this square, wanting to visit these three buildings. That does, of course, provide enough time for a relaxed lunch while waiting for them to reopen.

Connected to the Cadeval Palace, Church of John the Baptist, dates to 1485, and is the final resting place for all the dukes.

Its interior is covered with floor-to-ceiling blue azulejos (ceramic tiles), depicting scenes from the life of St. Lawrence Justinian.

The dukes have their own gilded balcony with a unimpeded view of the pulpit where they need not sit side-by-side with commoners.

An open cistern in the floor, remaining from the foundation of an earlier Arabian castle, contains bones gathered from nearby tombs.

On this same plaza, the Evora Museum features 13 panels depicting the life of the Virgin Mary, painted by artists from Bruges. Frei Manuel do Cenaculo, an 18-century monk who became Bishop of Evora, apparently had a lot of free time and collected archeological pieces 5,000 years old, including neolithic, Visigoths and Roman, which are displayed here.

The singular attraction in Evora is located down the street from my cozy hostel, Heaven Inn Evora. Sao Francisco Church's Chapel of Bones, assembles remains from 42 16th-century cemeteries that had taken up too much land, so they now decorate the church! Surrounding you are human skulls, femurs, humeri and radiuses lining the walls. The message you are supposed to understand is that death can come at any time. Pretty gruesome (yet fascinating) if you ask me. A plaque predicts: "We bones are here, waiting for yours."

Chapel of Bones in the Church of St. Francis where skulls and bones are mounted on its walls.

In the evenings, I strolled around, enjoying the fine temperate weather (mid-day can be hot) walking through parks and plazas and stopping at Magnifica Cerveja Artesanal do Alentejo (brewpub) to sample a green fruit beer. I was introduced to Portugal’s classic dish, Pastels de Bacalau con arroz (cod with rice) and tried out a couple of glasses of port wine. Outdoor dining overflowed past restaurant walls into the cobblestone streets, with diners enjoying dinner and companionship. Nobody was looking at their phone!

Diners enjoying delightful summer evening. Everywhere there are tiled streets.

I noticed bulletins promoting seasonal festivals that might be fun to plan around, for example, Mardi Gras generally falls in March. St. John's Fair, which lasts 12 days, has been celebrated in June for six centuries. There is a three-day classical music festival, Festival Alentejo - a modern music festival - in July and International Film Festival in the fall.

I did not plan this trip very well and, what I had planned, United Airlines messed up! Still, I managed to move spontaneously from town to town, even in high season, easily find accommodations and meals. My charming hotelier Rita who was a student at the University of Evora, was familiar with New Orleans from Walt Whitman’s “Leaves of Grass.” Rita said, Portugal is still a country you can treat as a ‘road trip.’