Holy Braga!

Portugal's Oldest City

I made my way very easily on foot via Google maps to InBraga Hostel from the FlixBus station. The rustic inn is located downtown inside a renovated 18th-century building on a street once traversed by pilgrims along the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. Entering the dark lobby through a heavy wooded door, I immediately climbed a steep staircase, entering a communal living area lined with books and maps, friendly kitchen and shaded outdoor garden with picnic tables. After checking in, I went upstairs to my sunny room where there were three bunk beds and a shared bathroom for women.

Entrance to Braga's City Center

For the first time since arriving in Portugal, the weather temperature was too warm to sit outside. I decided to take a short stroll around the immediate area and then relax.

Braga is Portugal's oldest city, in its

northernmost region, founded by the Romans in 16 B.C. as Bracara Augusta, the capital of Gallaecia. Portugal's first Catholic diocese, Braga can brag about 80 churches, one on almost every corner. Folks attend weekday mass here as Braga is still very religious.

The next morning, I visited the cathedral, circa 1000 A.D., where (literally) numerous bodies are buried, mostly bishops. Many edifaces started out Roman and were later rebuilt Baroque, beginning in the late 16th century.

Of course, colorful ceramic tiles (azulejos) are everywhere.

Palacio do Raio, built in 1755 by Jose Duarte de Faria

Throughout the city, marvelous wide boulevards with medians are planted with red and gold flowers. Much like Paris, I noticed many sidewalk cafes, offering pastries, ice cream and, of course, pastel de nata custards. Locals promenade as if they have nowhere in particular to be.

I wasn't too interested in visiting every church, although I did attend mass for the first time in a very long while. One of my hostel mates, Jacqueline from Brazil, said we really must see Bom Jesus, a sanctuary atop a hill. "If you haven't seen Bom Jesus (Great Jesus), you haven't seen Braga, have you?" It sounded quite important indeed.

Due to some miscommunication, Jacqueline went off to mass to pray for the resurgence of an old love affair, and I tried to locate the mountain myself. Quickly finding the #2 bus, I landed at the base of the historic site where there were three options: to walk up 500 steps, follow a less steep wooded trail or ride a funicular, powered by water, built in 1882. Somewhat confused by this choice, I ended up riding up the mountainside on the tramway, joining a lovely Indian family from France who translated the instructions for me. I had had enough uphill climbs at that point, so the 45-degree tram ride was the way to go.

Having done little prior research, I was astonished to discover the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte on Mount Espinho, a destination for pilgrims for over six centuries. The Council of Trent (1545-63) called for several religious buildings to be constructed, countering the threat of the Protestant Reformation. On the mountain's peak, a Baroque basilica, is surrounded by lush gardens, paths and grottos arranged in a complex Viae Crucis (Way of the Cross) formation. I visited a few of the 14 station depicting scenes from Jesus's path from his condemnation by Pontius Pilate to his crucifiction and burial. Then, I sampled a Super Bock while contemplating His fate. The park is very serene with a panoramic view of the countryside. And a very good place to pray, assuming there are items on your bucket list.

Those more amibitious than I ascended 500 steps, taking opportunities to stop, reflect and a breather. I did the less strenuous but lovely walk down.

Bom Jesus, a celebrated pilgrimage site, overlooks Braga.