Charming Coimbra

I think Coimbra is my favorite city. It was Portugal’s first capital,

having one of the oldest universities in Europe - and the

world - built on a hilltop so it could double as a fort.

Getting from the bus station to my hotel was difficult as I was

unable to flag down an Uber. I would call, then be sent down

or across the street to meet the driver. And there was no way I

would walk up that hill dragging my suitcase. Being

completely unfamiliar with the streets, my ride got dropped

twice before Manuel waved to me from the opposite side.

Overjoyed, I ran to him, lugging my carry-on bag behind me,

but promptly dropped the phone in the back seat, which I

didn’t realize till after he left. Panic! Everything on this trip

happened via phone, including lodging and transportation. In

this way, Portugal is quite modern.

The Old Cathedral, circa 1170

I checked into the Serenata, a charming guest house perched on the hillside beneath the university, where I implored the desk attendant to work some magic with Uber. Serenata Hostel, which looks like a villa, was built as an art and music school then later became a maternity institute, now a hostel. I felt like I was living in a beautiful 150-year-old boarding school with hot showers.

Meanwhile, I checked my things and went off searching for lunch. In general, breakfast in Portugal is insubstantial. There might be a roll, cheese, cold cuts, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers, possibly yogurt. By lunchtime, you are hungry. That said, I and everyone I met lost weight in Portugal, so it must be the right formula. I walked just a few steps downhill to a bistro on the square to order a sandwich and a beer. I was almost immediately engaged by an antique salesman sitting at the next table who beckoned me to join him. For the next two hours, I was entertained nonstop by his ravings and passersby on the Largo da Se Velha (plaza of the Old Cathedral c. 1170). He begged me to buy a farm like two American couples from Montana who had left the US because of politics. He believed that particular cafe, overlooking the square, was the best place in the world and right then I thought he was right; I was having such fun. His friend, a server at a nearby bistro, who spoke perfect English, joined us sitting in the sunshine. (No one ever asks you to move or gives you the bill without asking for it.) She mentioned that a jazz festival would be happening in the streets that evening. By the time I left lunch, I had almost forgotten the terror of losing my phone, and Manuel did bring it the next morning.

I headed up the hill to take a look at the

university, founded in 1290 upon command of King Dinis. I bought a $11 ticket to visit five academic buildings, including its famous library, built 1716-23, cataloguing more than a million volumes. Since the number of people entering the library at any one time is strictly limited, I waited till 4 p.m. the next day for my turn. It was worth the wait to see its inlaid marble floors, tables made of ebony and rosewood imported from the Portuguese colonies, and rows upon rows of towering bookshelves. Needless to say, there were ladders to climb up to the place where your chosen book might be. I tried to ask how they were organized before the Dewey Decimal System, but never got an answer. The science museum with the Cabinet of Curiosities was also fascinating, as well as the Royal Palace and St. Michael’s Chapel.

Apparently, college students hundreds of years ago were similar to those today, enjoying social life and playing pranks.

The buildings are certainly impressive as are its graduates and achievements. University of Coimbra is among the top 500 worldwide. Students still wear black capes, a costume adopted 500 years ago, symbolizing equality, respect and humility.

The auditorium where university graduates receive their diplomas.

That night, I hiked the narrow cobblestone streets, searching for jazz music. It was mostly Western music, but hardly jazz. I heard folk and contemporary music and plenty of songs written by Michael Jackson. People didn't seem to know or care about the difference. I don’t blame Coimbra for not having authentic jazz. I live in New Orleans and hear the real thing almost daily.

I ate very little white traveling and walked a whole lot, up and down. Thus, slimmed down. Seemed to me that everyone looked very good, healthy and thin. The food is very fresh and hardly a potato chip to be found.

St. Michael's Chapel at the University of Coimbra

The organ in St. Michael's Chapel at the University of Coimbra